Skincare Products with PDRN and Exosomes: What Is the Difference and How Are They Tested?
Biotechnology is increasingly influencing the skincare industry. Two ingredients that are gaining attention in serums, ampoules, masks, and other formulations are PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) and exosomes.
Although both are often associated with regenerative skincare concepts, they are fundamentally different biological materials. PDRN consists primarily of DNA fragments, whereas exosomes belong to the extracellular vesicle family and contain a lipid membrane surrounding biological cargo such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids.
Their different structures mean they require different analytical strategies. This makes laboratory testing particularly important. Simply listing PDRN or exosomes on a product label does not demonstrate the identity, concentration, stability, safety, or effectiveness of the ingredient within the finished formulation.
Table of Content:
- What Is PDRN?
- What Are Exosomes?
- How Are PDRN and Exosomes Different?
- How Can PDRN Be Tested?
- How Are Exosomes Tested?
- The Finished Skincare Product Must Also Be Tested
- “Contains PDRN or Exosomes” Is Not the Same as “Clinically Effective”
- Innovation Needs Evidence
What Is PDRN?
Polydeoxyribonucleotide is a mixture of DNA-derived polynucleotide fragments. Analytical characterization of PDRN has demonstrated a distribution of DNA fragment sizes, making molecular-size profiling an important characteristic of this material.
Experimental studies in human keratinocytes and fibroblasts have shown that PDRN can influence cellular signaling and skin-cell responses. However, these effects depend on the cell type and experimental conditions, meaning that results obtained from a PDRN raw material cannot automatically be applied to every finished topical product containing the ingredient.
Research is also expanding beyond traditional animal-derived materials. Purified PDRN from Panax ginseng, for example, has been investigated for its physicochemical and biological characteristics in skin-regeneration models. This highlights the importance of identifying and controlling the source of the material.
Read Also:
DNA Salmon untuk Kulit Lebih Muda: Fakta atau Sekedar Tren?
What Are Exosomes?
Exosomes are small membrane-bound particles within the broader group of extracellular vesicles (EVs). They can carry proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids between cells.
The terminology, however, requires caution. The International Society for Extracellular Vesicles' MISEV2023 guidance recommends comprehensive characterization and careful nomenclature. When the specific biogenesis of a vesicle population has not been demonstrated, the broader term “extracellular vesicle” may be scientifically more appropriate than automatically labeling all nanoscale biological vesicles as exosomes.
In Indonesia, BPOM has stated that notified cosmetic products containing exosome ingredients already exist. Such ingredients are subject to safety, benefit, and quality assessment. BPOM also emphasizes that products administered by injection, microneedle, or certain transdermal procedures are not classified as cosmetics.
How Are PDRN and Exosomes Different?
Their fundamental difference lies in structure.
PDRN is primarily a DNA-fragment material. Testing therefore focuses on nucleic-acid identity, concentration, fragment-size distribution, purity, and stability.
Exosomes or EVs are membrane-bound biological particles. Their evaluation requires several complementary parameters, including particle size and concentration, morphology, protein markers, purity, and source characterization.
MISEV2023 specifically supports multiparametric characterization because no single analytical method can sufficiently establish EV identity and purity on its own.
In simple terms:
PDRN → DNA-fragment characterization
Exosomes/EVs → vesicle, protein-marker, particle, and purity characterization
How Can PDRN Be Tested?
A PDRN testing program should be designed according to the raw material, concentration, dosage form, and intended product claims.
1. Identity and Quantification
Analytical methods can be used to demonstrate the presence and amount of DNA-derived material. Earlier PDRN characterization studies employed chromatographic and electrophoretic approaches to characterize and quantify polynucleotide fractions.
2. DNA Fragment-Size Profile
DNA fragments may vary substantially in molecular size. Electrophoretic techniques can provide information about fragment distribution and help detect changes or degradation in the PDRN material.
3. Purity
Because PDRN originates from biological material, purity assessment should take the source and manufacturing process into account. Residual components originating from extraction or processing may therefore require appropriate analytical control.
4. Stability
PDRN characteristics may change during formulation and storage. Stability assessment may therefore monitor PDRN content, fragment profiles, pH, appearance, and other formulation characteristics over time.
How Are Exosomes Tested?
Exosome testing is inherently more complex because the analytical strategy must differentiate vesicles from other particles and non-vesicular components.
1. Particle Size and Concentration
Techniques such as Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis (NTA) and other particle-analysis platforms can characterize particle-size distributions and concentrations. Particle size alone, however, does not establish EV identity.
2. Vesicle Morphology
High-resolution microscopy can provide information about vesicle morphology and structure. MISEV2023 recommends combining this type of evaluation with other characterization methods rather than relying on morphology alone.
3. Protein Markers
Proteins commonly associated with EV populations, including CD9, CD63, and CD81, may be evaluated alongside additional EV-associated proteins. Appropriate negative or non-EV markers should also be considered when assessing preparation purity.
4. Source and Purity
The biological source, production conditions, separation method, and potential non-vesicular contaminants can influence the final EV preparation. MISEV2023 therefore emphasizes detailed characterization of source material and processing conditions.
The Finished Skincare Product Must Also Be Tested
Testing PDRN or exosome raw materials alone is not sufficient. Once incorporated into a serum, essence, cream, or mask, the finished formulation must also maintain acceptable quality.
Relevant parameters may include pH, viscosity, homogeneity, organoleptic characteristics, physical and chemical stability, microbiological quality, preservative effectiveness where appropriate, packaging compatibility, irritation potential, and effectiveness testing related to the proposed claims.
Interactions with preservatives, surfactants, other active ingredients, pH, temperature, and manufacturing conditions may affect the characteristics of biologically derived ingredients within the final formulation.
“Contains PDRN or Exosomes” Is Not the Same as “Clinically Effective”
Confirming the presence of an ingredient is different from proving a finished-product benefit. Clinical studies involving extracellular-vesicle-containing formulations have reported promising improvements in selected skin parameters, but outcomes vary according to vesicle source, formulation, delivery technique, and study design.
Finished-product claims should therefore be supported by studies conducted with the actual formulation or a scientifically justified equivalent.
Innovation Needs Evidence
PDRN and exosomes demonstrate how biotechnology is becoming increasingly relevant to skincare development. But as ingredient complexity increases, laboratory characterization and product testing become even more important.
Reliable analytical data can support raw-material qualification, formulation development, stability monitoring, safety assessment, quality control, and scientifically defensible product claims.
Prove Your PDRN and Exosome Product Claims with the Right Testing
Do not rely on ingredient trends alone. Support your PDRN- and exosome-based skincare products with appropriate data on identity, quality, stability, safety, and performance. Discuss your testing requirements with IML Testing & Research.
Author & Editor: Lina
References
Tonello, G., Daglio, M., Zaccarelli, N., Sottofattori, E., Mazzei, M., & Balbi, A. (1996). Characterization and quantitation of the active polynucleotide fraction (PDRN) from human placenta, a tissue repair-stimulating agent. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, 14, 1555–1560.
Shin, S. M., Baek, E. J., Kim, K. H., Kim, K. J., & Park, E. J. (2023). Polydeoxyribonucleotide exerts opposing effects on ERK activity in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Molecular Medicine Reports, 28(2), 148.
Lee, K. S., et al. (2023). Analysis of skin regeneration and barrier-improvement efficacy of polydeoxyribonucleotide isolated from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer adventitious root.
Welsh, J. A., Goberdhan, D. C. I., O'Driscoll, L., Buzás, E. I., Blenkiron, C., Bussolati, B., et al. (2024). Minimal information for studies of extracellular vesicles (MISEV2023): From basic to advanced approaches. Journal of Extracellular Vesicles, 13(2), e12404.
Park, G. H., Kwon, H. H., Seok, J., Yang, S. H., Lee, J., Park, B. C., et al. (2023). Efficacy of combined treatment with human adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosome-containing solution and microneedling for facial skin aging: A 12-week prospective, randomized, split-face study.
Kwon, H. H., et al. (2020). Combination treatment with human adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosomes and fractional CO₂ laser for acne scars: A 12-week prospective, double-blind, randomized, split-face study.
International Society for Extracellular Vesicles (ISEV). Minimal Information for Studies of Extracellular Vesicles – MISEV2023.
Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makanan Republik Indonesia. (2025). Mengenal Exosome: Kantung yang Bermanfaat dalam Regenerasi Kulit. BPOM menjelaskan status kosmetik yang mengandung exosome serta perbedaan kategori produk berdasarkan cara penggunaannya.
