AHAs in Skincare Products: Why Do Their Levels Need to Be Tested?
In the rapidly evolving skincare industry, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) have become widely used active ingredients due to their ability to help remove dead skin cells and improve the appearance of the skin. However, the AHA concentration in a product should not be overlooked.
The appropriate concentration plays an important role in determining the balance between efficacy and safety. Therefore, checking AHA levels is an important step to ensure that a product complies with its claims, quality standards, and applicable safety limits.
Table of Content:
- What Are AHAs and Why Are They Widely Used in Skincare?
- Common Types of AHAs Used in Skincare Products
- Why Should AHA Levels in Skincare Be Considered?
- How Can You Check AHA Levels in Skincare Products?
What Are AHAs and Why Are They Widely Used in Skincare?
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of organic acids that were originally extracted from fruits, including compounds such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and lactobionic acid. Most AHAs are obtained from natural sources, although some are also produced synthetically.
AHAs work through the chelation of calcium ions in the epidermis, which weakens calcium dependent desmosomes that bind corneocyte cells together. As these bonds loosen, dead skin cells are shed from the surface. In addition to exfoliation, AHAs offer several other benefits, including moisturization, anti-aging effects, bacteriostatic activity, and skin brightening.
In dermatological practice, AHAs such as glycolic acid and lactic acid promote skin rejuvenation by promoting apoptosis in skin cells, increasing collagen and elastin synthesis, and improving skin texture and luminosity. Research has also shown that AHAs have significant effects on various skin conditions, improving skin texture and stimulating collagen synthesis.
The popularity of AHAs in skincare products is also associated with their high water solubility and their ability to be formulated into various products, ranging from toners and serums to lotions and cleansers. Clinically, as mild keratolytic agents, AHAs are considered less irritating than some other exfoliating ingredients.
Read Also:
What Is Dermatological Testing? Understanding Its Meaning Before Buying Skincare Products
Common Types of AHAs Used in Skincare Products
Different types of AHAs have different characteristics, sources, and benefits. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size, allowing it to penetrate the skin more deeply and provide a strong exfoliating effect. Lactic acid has a gentler profile and humectant properties, making it suitable for formulations that aim to provide both exfoliation and hydration.
Mandelic acid has a larger molecular size, resulting in slower penetration and a generally gentler effect. In addition, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid can also be found in cosmetic formulations as active ingredients or supporting components.
Why Should AHA Levels in Skincare Be Considered?
Research indicates that concentrations of 5–10% are commonly used in clinical practice to achieve effective exfoliation, while higher concentrations can significantly increase the potential for irritation. Various global regulatory bodies, such as the FDA and CIR, have established a maximum safe AHA concentration of 10% at a pH of 3.5 for consumer products, while concentrations of up to 30% are recommended only for professional salon use due to the greater associated risks.
In addition, FDA research has demonstrated that AHA use increases skin sensitivity to UV radiation, with an 18% increase in the risk of redness and a doubling of cellular damage, making sun-protection warnings on product labels particularly important. Adverse event reports involving burning sensations, rashes, swelling, and pigmentation changes further emphasize that an inappropriate concentration can turn AHA from a skin rejuvenating ingredient into a potential source of serious irritation.
How Can You Check AHA Levels in Skincare Products?
Checking AHA levels in skincare products can begin by reviewing the ingredient list or INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) on the packaging. Information about the percentage of active ingredients such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, or mandelic acid can help consumers understand the AHA concentration used.
If the percentage is not stated, the position of the ingredient in the INCI list can provide a general indication, as ingredients listed earlier are generally present at higher concentrations. Consumers can also use product-scanning applications to obtain information about active ingredients. However, laboratory testing is a more reliable option for accurately determining AHA levels. AHA concentration can be analyzed using methods such as High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), UV-Vis spectrophotometry, and titration.
In addition to concentration, the pH of AHA containing skincare products should also be considered because it affects both efficacy and the potential for irritation. Therefore, checking AHA levels and pH is an important part of ensuring the quality, safety, and effectiveness of skincare products.
Conclusion
Knowledge of AHA levels helps consumers choose skincare products that are appropriate for their individual needs and skin types. However, information provided on product packaging may not always be sufficient to confirm the actual AHA concentration.
For more accurate results, laboratory testing of AHA levels is an important step in ensuring the safety, quality, and effectiveness of skincare products.
Verify Your Product’s AHA Content Through Laboratory Testing
IML Testing & Research is a cosmetic testing laboratory that can assist with AHA level testing and various other chemical parameters in skincare products. With laboratory facilities and appropriate testing methods, analytical results can help verify whether product composition complies with established specifications and standards.
AHA level testing not only supports product quality control but also helps manufacturers provide more reliable and accountable information to consumers. Get a free consultation now.
Author: Elmira
Editor: Lina
References
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FDA. (2024). Cosmetics alpha hydroxy acids. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
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