You Need to Know This Before Producing Hydroquinone-Based Cosmetic Products!
Hydroquinone is an aromatic organic compound, a type of phenol derivative from benzene, with the chemical formula C6H4(OH)2. This compound has two hydroxyl groups attached to the benzene ring in the para position. Hydroquinone is a white granular solid that works by reducing melanocytes, which are cells in the outermost layer of the skin containing melanin. Melanin is the pigment that gives color to the skin. The more melanin present, the darker the skin appears. Increased melanocyte production results in higher melanin levels. Uneven melanocyte production can lead to hyperpigmentation in certain areas of the skin. By controlling melanocyte production, the skin can appear brighter.
Melanin also protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation. This is why the skin becomes darker after sun exposure. However, individuals with lighter skin tend to produce less melanin. Prolonged sun exposure increases the risk of skin cancer. Melanin is only formed in the presence of an enzyme called tyrosinase. Hydroquinone acts by inhibiting this enzyme. Without tyrosinase, melanin cannot be produced, resulting in lighter skin.
According to the Head of the National Agency of Drug and Food Control (BPOM) Regulation No. 18 of 2015 concerning technical requirements for cosmetic ingredients, the use of hydroquinone as a skin lightener is prohibited and can only be used for nail dyeing at a concentration of 0.02%, while hydroquinone in facial whitening creams has been banned since 2008. Hydroquinone above 2% is classified as a potent drug, typically used for hyperpigmentation disorders, melasma, chloasma, and spots, and is only available by prescription (Diantama, 2021). The effects of hydroquinone usage include skin irritation, vitiligo, and even exogenous ochronosis (skin hyperpigmentation). Excessive use of hydroquinone can cause ochronosis, a condition characterized by skin speckled like sand and with a brownish-blue discoloration; patients with ochronosis may experience a burning sensation and itching (Astuti, 2016).
Data indicate that from 2014 to 2019, 88 patients experienced exogenous ochronosis due to hydroquinone in whitening creams, with 92.04% of these patients being women. Ochronosis is characterized by bluish-black skin resulting from the accumulation of homogentisic acid (Kawarnidi et al., 2022). The use of whitening creams containing hazardous substances can initially make the skin appear smooth and white but can later settle beneath the skin and, after years, turn bluish-black, potentially triggering cancer.
Hydroquinone Testing Method
The mechanism of hydroquinone action involves binding to tyrosinase. Hydroquinone binds with tyrosinase and alters the enzyme's active structure. Hydroquinone can bind with the side groups of tyrosinase that are crucial for its catalytic activity. Additionally, hydroquinone can reduce or eliminate the availability of copper needed for tyrosinase function, thus decreasing enzyme activity. The enzymatic mechanism of hydroquinone may act as a competitive inhibitor by competing with tyrosine substrate for the active site on the enzyme, or as a non-competitive inhibitor by binding to the enzyme outside the active site, affecting enzyme activity without directly competing with the substrate.
Several common methods are used to detect the presence of hydroquinone. Qualitative analysis can be performed by adding Ferric Chloride (FeCl3). Hydroquinone reacts with FeCl3 according to the following equation:
3C6H4(OH)2(aq) + FeCl3(aq) → Fe(O2C6H5)3(aq) + 3HCl(aq)
Hydroquinone, as a ligand, forms a complex with iron(III) ions that can produce a characteristic green or black color depending on the concentration of hydroquinone in the sample. Additionally, hydroquinone can be detected using Thin-Layer Chromatography (TLC) with a polar silica stationary phase and a mobile phase consisting of a mixture of n-hexane and acetone. After the sample is eluted, spots will appear under UV light. This occurs because the hydroquinone structure has a benzene ring that fluoresces under UV light, allowing the spots to be identified by comparing the Rf values between standards and samples.
Quantitative analysis commonly used to determine hydroquinone levels in a sample includes UV-Vis spectroscopy and HPLC. UV-Vis spectroscopy is widely used due to its simplicity, speed, and accuracy. The absorbance of the sample solution is measured at the maximum wavelength specified by the hydroquinone standard. The regression equation obtained (y = mx + c), where y represents the sample absorbance and x denotes the sample concentration, is used to determine hydroquinone levels.
The Best Cosmetic Testing Laboratory in Indonesia
IML Testing and Research is the best independent laboratory or testing institution for cosmetic product testing. By applying quality standards ISO 9001 and ISO/IEC 17025, the quality of cosmetic product testing is guaranteed. By conducting your cosmetic product testing at IML Testing and Research, you will receive a laboratory test report that complies with the standards or regulations required by BPOM.
Referensi :
Efprio Nensa Kurniawan, dkk. 2022. Analysis of Hydroquinone Content in Whitening Cream by Spectrophotometry UV-Vis Method. Journal Syifa Sciences and Clinical Research (JSSCR). Vol. 3 (3).
Ikafatimah Sophieyati, dkk. 2024. Analisis Kualitatif dan Kuantitatif Kandungan Hidrokuinon dalam Krim Pemutih Herbal yang Dijual Secara Online. Borobudur Pharmacy Review. Vol. 4 (1) pp.12-19.
Kawarnidi, T., Septiarini, A. D., & Wardani, T. S. 2022. Formulasi dan evaluasi salep ekstrak daun ketepeng cina (cassia alata L.) dengan basis vaselin album dan cera alba terhadap jamur candida albicans. Jurnal Farmasi Dan Kesehatan Indonesia, 2(1).
Syarah Megianti Fahira, dkk. 2021. Analisis Kandungan Hidrokuinon dalam Krim Pemutih yang Beredar di Beberapa Pasar Kota Mataram dengan Spektrofotometer Ultraviolet-Visibel. SPIN Jurnal Kimia dan Pendidikan Kimia. Vol. 3 (1
