Probiotics and Fermentation for More Advanced Skin Care
The cosmetic industry continues to evolve, relying heavily on biology and microbiology to develop innovative products. This multidisciplinary field has enabled the creation of ingredients that benefit skin health and care, such as antioxidants, bioactive compounds, natural fragrances, and natural colorants. Microorganisms play a crucial role in this process, especially in producing natural pigments and fragrances used in various beauty products.
For example, the bacterium Serratia marcescens can produce a red pigment called prodigiosin, which is used in lipsticks and blush. Meanwhile, Delftia acidovorans and Pseudomonas putida produce a blue pigment called indigoidine, suitable for eyeshadows and mascaras. Red, pink, and orange pigments can also be obtained from yeasts like Rhodotorula and Monascus. Additionally, bacteria and yeasts generate aromatic compounds like esters, aldehydes, and alcohols through fermentation, which are used in soaps, oils, creams, lotions, and perfumes.
Microorganisms are also utilized in cosmetics as probiotics—live bacteria that provide health benefits when applied to the skin. Probiotics are commonly found in products like creams, lotions, serums, masks, and cleansers. Their benefits include balancing the skin microbiome, strengthening the skin barrier, reducing inflammation, and helping prevent issues such as acne, eczema, premature aging, and wrinkles.
Fermentation in Skincare
Fermentation is a biochemical process where microorganisms convert organic compounds into more beneficial products. In cosmetics, fermentation enhances nutrient content and skin microbiota, like how probiotics improve gut bacteria. Fermentation breaks down natural ingredients like plants and fruits into bioactive compounds that are easier for the skin to absorb. This process produces various beneficial compounds like fatty acids, enzymes, peptides, vitamins, lipopolysaccharides, and pigments, which can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations. Examples of compounds derived from fermentation include Hyaluronic acid, a moisturizing agent produced by Streptococcus zooepidemicus and Bacillus subtilis through fermentation.
Peptides, amino acids that boost collagen production or reduce inflammation and wrinkles. Ceramides, produced in higher quantities by Saccharomyces cerevisiae compared to plant-derived ceramides, to enhance the skin barrier. Emollients, which form a protective film on the skin and soften rough, dry, or flaky areas. Surfactants, amphiphilic detergents that support emulsifying, solubilizing, and foaming effects in cosmetics.
Challenges in Probiotic Cosmetic Development
One major challenge for the cosmetic industry is maintaining the stability of probiotics from production to consumer use. Improper humidity levels can cause dried microorganisms to hydrate, grow, or die. Thus, oil-based formulations are often required. However, another hurdle is ensuring these microorganisms separate from the oil, are absorbed by the skin, and become metabolically active to deliver their intended benefits. Since most cosmetic formulations are not sterile, stabilizers with bactericidal or bacteriostatic properties are used to inhibit pathogenic bacteria.
Fermented Skincare Products
Probiotic and fermented skincare products can address various skin issues like acne. However, their effectiveness may vary because everyone's skin microbiota is unique. As a general recommendation, look for cosmetic formulations containing a mix of biotics (pre-, pro-, and post-biotics) to stabilize and maintain a healthy skin microbiome.
It’s worth noting that only a few fermented skincare products contain live bacteria. Adding live bacteria is often ineffective, as preservatives used to protect formulations and skin can deactivate them. A safer solution is to use probiotic lysates or ferments, which are non-living probiotic components that offer similar benefits to live probiotics.
There are examples of effective fermented ingredients include Lactobacillus ferment, which acts as an antimicrobial and skin conditioner, also Saccharomyces ferment filtrate, which acts as an antioxidant and moisturizer recommended at concentrations of 0.1%-5% for leave-on products and up to 10% for rinse-off products. This ingredient is safe, vegan, water-soluble, and has low viscosity, making it more versatile than Lactobacillus ferment.
Optimizing Fermented Skincare
To maximize the benefits of probiotic lysates and fermented ingredients in skincare, proper formulation strategies are essential like avoid jar packaging, as light and air can accelerate degradation, choose products from brands with scientific expertise in probiotic and fermentation technology, choose fragrance-free formulations to enhance the calming effects.
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Author: Safira
References:
Culliney, Kacey. 2024. Live probiotic in cosmetics an “Interesting” concept – but is it worth the effort? Available at: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2020/10/21/Probiotic-cosmetics-for-the-skin-microbiome-face-live-versus-dead-bacteria-choice-experts-say/, accessed on 30th November 2024.
Medium. 2024. Role of microorganisms in the cosmetic industry. Available at: https://medium.com/@microbiologyeasynotes/role-microorganisms-in-the-cosmetic-industry-9a90f05f2285, accessed on 30th November 2024.
Swain, I. 2024. Fermentation in Skincare: Unlocking the Power of Probiotics. Available at: https://learncanyon.com/fermentation-in-skincare/, accessed on 30th November 2024.
