Niacinamide VS Arbutin, which one is more effective?
What is Arbutin?
Arbutin has two diastereomers, alpha and beta arbutin, sharing the same chemical formula but differing in structure. Alpha arbutin exhibits more effective and stable tyrosinase inhibition activity compared to beta arbutin. Arbutin functions by inhibiting melanin synthesis, leading to a visibly brighter skin tone. Its molecular structure allows it to work in a way similar to hydroquinone, though it causes significantly less skin irritation.
What is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide (nicotinamide) is the amide form of water-soluble vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin). Niacinamide contributes to an even and bright skin tone by fading dark spots and hyperpigmented areas. This ingredient enhances the skin’s appearance and texture by promoting ceramide formation, which strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, improves moisture retention, and reduces the effects of environmental stressors. Additionally, by regulating oil production, niacinamide aids in minimizing pore congestion.
The combination of Niacinamide and Alpha Arbutin is the Best Combination
In cosmetic products, these two compounds work synergistically to brighten and even out skin tone. The potent combination of niacinamide and alpha arbutin has proven beneficial for the skin, particularly in addressing facial hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide supports collagen production, reduces wrinkles and fine lines, and regulates sebum production to prevent acne. Meanwhile, arbutin acts as a melanin production inhibitor, helping to prevent the formation of dark spots. Its antioxidant properties also assist in protecting the skin from UV-induced damage.
Both active ingredients can be incorporated into skincare formulations within specific concentration limits. The common formulations are facial serums, brightening creams, moisturizers, and lotions. Each formulation may contain different concentrations depending on the texture and the desired benefits. These ingredients can be combined because they do not have differing mechanisms of action and do not exfoliate the skin, so the risk of irritation is lower compared to other active ingredients.
Niacinamide concentrations above 10% may cause skin irritation and excessive sebum production; therefore, it is recommended to use niacinamide at levels below 10% in skincare products. The SCCS (as per SCCS/1552/15 and SCCS/1550/15) has concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe for consumers in cosmetic products at concentrations of up to 2% in facial creams and up to 0.5% in body lotions. Similarly, beta-arbutin is considered safe at concentrations up to 7% in facial creams, provided hydroquinone contamination in the formulation remains below 1 ppm.
SCCS is the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, which is the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety in the European Union. This committee provides scientific opinions on the safety of substances used in consumer products, including cosmetics, to protect human health.
Understand the importance of the right formulation for your product! If used in appropriate and safe concentrations, the combination of niacinamide and alpha arbutin can be an attractive added value for consumers. Make sure every step in your product development supports quality and safety. To ensure your product is effective, conduct a lab test on the product you have.
Stay tuned for the next article on effective strategies for creating top-notch cosmetic products!
Author: Delfia
References :
Boo, Yong Chool. 2021. Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidant, 10 : 1315. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10081315
Dana, Lauren, 2022. Here’s What You Need to Know About Niacinamide, a Do-It-All Skin-Care Staple. Elle.com Diakses pada 7 November 2024. Dapat diakses pada tautan https://www.elle.com/beauty/makeup-skin-care/g39678523/niacinamide-for-skin/
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). 2023. Opinion on the Safety of Alpha-arbutin and Beta-arbutin in Cosmetic Products. SCCS/1642/22
