Let’s get to know Retinol! Solutions for Dull and Wrinkled Skin!
What is Retinol?
Retinol are a class of Vitamin A compounds used to address fine lines, wrinkles, skin discoloration, and uneven skin texture. Retinoids work by accelerating the rate of cell turnover in the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin. This cell turnover process involves several stages, including the formation of new cells, migration, maturation, and shedding of old cells. Through this process, damaged skin cells are quickly replaced with healthy new cells, thereby improving skin quality and appearance. Retinoid derivatives include retinol esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid.
Retinol and it's Derivatives
Retinol is the mildest form of Vitamin A, with the lowest irritation potential. It must undergo two conversion steps in the skin to become retinal and then retinoic acid, its active form. Retinol is commonly used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1%, but an effective concentration is typically 0.025%. It is advised to use retinol 2-3 times a week to allow the skin to adjust to the changes and accommodate individual skin conditions.
The oxidized form of retinol, retinal, is 20 times more effective than retinol because it is converted to its active form in only one step. However, this increased effectiveness comes with a higher risk of irritation, so transitioning from retinol to retinal requires careful adjustment to the skin. The allowable concentration of retinal in cosmetic formulations ranges from 0.01% to 0.1%. Due to its instability, retinol requires stabilizers in cosmetic formulations. Retinol is also prone to degradation by UV light, so products containing retinol should be stored away from UV exposure. It is highly recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using retinol at night to protect the skin and prevent irritation.
The final form of retinoid derivatives is retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, which is the active form of Vitamin A. Retinoic acid is commonly used in topical Vitamin A preparations and can be obtained either over the counter or by prescription. This compound is frequently used in skincare products for treating acne, repairing sun-damaged skin, and for skin lightening.
Skin cells have receptors for retinoic acid, known as retinoic acid receptors (RARs), located intracellularly. When retinoic acid binds to these receptors, it activates gene transcription that stimulates cell replication and differentiation, particularly keratinocytes, which are the primary cells in the outer layer of the skin (epidermis). This activation leads to reduced wrinkles and the repair of damaged skin. Retinoic acid also enhances the regulation of genes involved in the production of NGAL protein, which plays a role in the apoptosis of sebaceous glands, the oil-producing glands in the skin that are often implicated in acne. By reducing the number of sebaceous glands, oil production decreases, thereby reducing acne.
Retinoic acid is also frequently included in skin lightening creams due to its believed lightening effects. Unlike other whitening agents that inhibit melanin pigment directly, retinoic acid works by increasing keratinocyte proliferation and accelerating epidermal turnover, which results in a brighter skin appearance. As a potent compound, retinoic acid usage is highly regulated due to its potential to cause skin dryness, irritation, and inflammation.
When using retinoid products, it is advisable to avoid other active ingredients such as AHA, BHA, PHA, and Vitamin C, as their combined use can increase the risk of skin irritation. Both retinoids and these active ingredients enhance epidermal exfoliation, and excessive skin cell turnover can lead to redness and inflammation. Therefore, it is important to monitor the timing and frequency of retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid usage.
Skincare products containing retinoids, retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid should undergo laboratory testing before being widely marketed. Because when you want to apply for a distribution permit to BPOM, the initial document required for the application is the laboratory test results report of the product. IML Testing and Research is the best independent laboratory for testing all cosmetic products. By conducting your cosmetic tests at IML Testing and Research, you will receive a comprehensive, accurate, and reliable laboratory test report certificate for your product. Quickly conduct your product testing with us and receive free consultation from our expert team. Click the button below to connect directly with us.
Reference:
Biru, Putri Wulan, dkk. 2023. Review Artikel : Retinol pada Kosmetika. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Sciences. 6 (1) : 256-260.
Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
Zasada, Malwina & Budzisz, Elzbieta. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology. 36. 392-397. 10.5114/ada.2019.87443.