Latest Trends in the Perfume Industry!

Various Perfume Aromas in the World

Perfume is a liquid that provides a pleasant aroma and is used on clothing, the body, and room. Fragrances can generally be derived from natural, synthetic, and animal-based sources. Natural ingredients used in perfume production include flower extracts (such as rose, jasmine, lavender, and ylang-ylang), fruits, spices, leaves, and herbs, all of which can yield delightful scents. 

In addition to natural sources, animal-based ingredients like ambergris (from sperm whales), musk (from deer), and civet (from civet cats) are also used in perfume production. However, the availability of natural and animal-based resources in nature is limited. Consequently, rare fragrances that are difficult to source from nature can be substituted with synthetic materials. Synthetic ingredients are also generally cheaper and more accessible. Examples of artificial substances that produce pleasant aromas include aldehydes (fresh and clean), coumarin (vanilla/almond), and calone (ozonic, sea-like). However, synthetic materials are not considered eco-friendly.

Genetic Engineering in Fragrance Production

As public awareness and interest in health and natural-based products increase, using natural resources for fragrances poses a significant challenge in perfume manufacturing. Research has shown that microbes can produce secondary metabolites—aromatic and fragrant compounds—through the fermentation process, biocatalysis, or genetic engineering. Using microbes to produce fragrances and aromas offers several advantages: eco-friendly, natural origins, the ability to produce large quantities without harvesting rare plants, and independence from climate conditions. The use of genetically engineered bacterial strains for fragrance production began in 2010, during a shortage of essential oils extracted from the plant Pogostemon cablin (patchouli). Patchouli plants produce essential oils used in incense sticks and other personal care and health products. Heavy rains in Indonesia damaged these medicinal shrubs, causing a decline in essential oil harvests. The situation worsened with volcanic eruptions and earthquakes that further disrupted supply chains. To meet the growing demand for patchouli oil, genetically modified microbes and yeast were specifically designed to produce fragrances from patchouli plants.

Biotechnology companies such as Allylix, Isobionics, Givaudan, Firmenich, Evolva, and International Flavors & Fragrances produce microbe-based perfumes and flavors through sugar fermentation. The first microbe-derived products were valencene—a citrus molecule typically found in Valencia orange peel—and nootkatone, found in grapefruit peel. These compounds are commonly used in fruit-flavored beverages and perfumes. Vanilla scent, often produced synthetically, can also be generated through microbial fermentation. Additionally, metabolic engineering has enabled E. coli to produce a synthetic banana aroma (chemical name: isoamyl acetate), nicknamed “Eau d’E. coli.” Microbes like Candida tropicalis or Yarrowia lipolytica can degrade ricinoleic acid and accumulate δ-decalactone, contributing to fruity and oily notes found in peach, apricot, and strawberry aromas.