Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid for Skin

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide compound composed of a long chain of water and sugar molecules. Its primary benefit to the skin is its ability to retain water within the cells, thus maintaining skin hydration. The main function of hyaluronic acid is to help the skin retain moisture, resulting in a plump, firm appearance and the prevention of fine lines. Although the body naturally produces hyaluronic acid, production decreases with age. To fullfil the body’s needs, hyaluronic acid can be supplemented through topical applications such as moisturizers, lotions, and similar products.

Types of Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Natural sources of hyaluronic acid include foods like sweet potatoes, nuts, garlic, green vegetables, and fruits. Hyaluronic acid can also be synthesized through enzymatic or chemical methods. Based on an understanding of its biosynthetic and catabolic pathways, extensive research has been conducted to utilize HA synthase enzymes or hyaluronidases to produce hyaluronic acid. Although impressive synthesis efficiency has been achieved, the substrate specificity of enzymes inherently limits the structural diversity of hyaluronic acid analogues. Therefore, chemical synthesis can complement enzymatic methods to create a wider variety of hyaluronic acid structures. Hyaluronic acid is available in various forms within skincare products, including:

Sodium Hyaluronate: A derivative of hyaluronic acid commonly used in skincare due to its smaller molecular size. This smaller size enables deeper penetration into the skin layers for intensive hydration.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: This form has been broken down into even smaller molecular sizes for maximum penetration into the skin. It is effective for skin that requires deep hydration.
High Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid: With a larger molecular size, this form is more effective at hydrating the skin’s surface. It is beneficial for providing a soft, hydrated feel to the skin without deep penetration.

The chemical structure of hyaluronic acid is a long chain, known as a polymer, with multiple available sites where other molecules, particularly water, can attach. Thus, just a quarter teaspoon of hyaluronic acid can hold approximately one and a half gallons of water, making it an ideal and common ingredient in moisturizing products.

Hyaluronic Acid Usage Limits

In skincare formulations, the chemical and physical properties of hyaluronic acid require careful consideration. Smaller molecules can penetrate the epidermis and perform their intended function, while larger molecules tend to remain on the skin’s surface, acting as humectants. Once inside the skin, hyaluronic acid is naturally broken down by an enzyme called hyaluronidase. Smaller molecular sizes allow for deeper penetration into the skin’s layers, providing long-lasting moisture. Safe concentrations of hyaluronic acid for skincare products generally range from 0.25% to 2%. Although hyaluronic acid is non-irritating, the short- and long-term effects of using excessively high doses have yet to be fully understood.

Make sure your skincare products contain hyaluronic acid at the right levels and according to standards. Lab test at IML Research to determine the quality and effectiveness of your formulation.

Stay tuned for the next article for more information on active ingredients in skincare!

References :

Becker L.C., Bergfeld W.F., Belsito D.V., Klaassen C.D., Marks J.G., Shank R.C., Slaga T.J., Snyder P.W., Ingredient C., Expert R., et al. Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, and Sodium Hyaluronate. Int. J. Toxicol. 2009;28:5–67. doi: 10.1177/1091581809337738.

Cleveland Clinic. 2022. Hyaluronic Acid. Diakses pada 13 November 2024. Dapat diakses pada tautan : https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/22915-hyaluronic-acid

Lu, X., Kamat, M. N., Huang, L., & Huang, X. (2009). Chemical Synthesis of a Hyaluronic Acid Decasaccharide. The Journal of Organic Chemistry, 74(20), 7608–7617. doi:10.1021/jo9016925