Behind The Attractive Colors of Cosmetics Lies a Carcinogenic Risk

Cosmetics are preparations used on the external parts of the human body, such as the skin, hair, nails, lips, and the area around the eyes, with the purpose of cleansing, perfuming, altering appearance, and maintaining the body in good condition.

One of the most widely used groups of cosmetics in daily life is colored cosmetics or decorative cosmetics, such as lipstick, blush, eyeshadow, mascara, and foundation. Decorative cosmetics are designed to provide color, highlight facial features, and enhance the user’s self-confidence.

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Attractive Colors in Decorative Cosmetics

The colors used in decorative cosmetics are very diverse, ranging from dark shades to bright and metallic colors. These color pigments may originate from natural sources, such as plant extracts, fruits, natural minerals, or other organic materials.

However, in practice, many manufacturers also use synthetic colorants because they are considered more stable, longer-lasting, easy to blend, and capable of producing more consistent colors. The use of synthetic colorants in cosmetics is permitted as long as they meet safety requirements.

The safety of synthetic colorants is determined by regulatory authorities at both national and international levels, such as the Indonesian National Agency of Drug and Food Control (BPOM) and the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) internationally.

Problem in Cosmetic Colorants

Problems arise when some makeup manufacturers, especially small scale or illegal producers, use textile dyes as color pigments in cosmetics. Textile dyes are actually designed to color fabrics and textile fibers, not to be applied to human skin.

The main reasons for using textile dyes in makeup are their much lower price, easy availability, and their ability to produce very bright and attractive colors. Visually, cosmetics containing textile dyes appear more striking and appealing; however, behind this appearance lies a significant risk to skin and overall health.

Attractive Colors, Carcinogenic Risks

Textile dyes are dangerous because they are not designed for direct and repeated contact with the skin. Many textile dyes contain chemical compounds such as azo dyes, heavy metals, or intermediate substances that are toxic and carcinogenic.

Carcinogenic substances are agents that can trigger the development of cancer. In certain types of textile dyes, especially those containing azo groups, these compounds can decompose into carcinogenic aromatic amines when they interact with enzymes in the skin. The presence of these substances can be identified through toxicity testing.

When applied continuously, these substances can penetrate the epidermal layer, causing irritation, chronic inflammation, allergic reactions, and increasing the risk of skin cancer or long-term systemic disorders.

Examples of Harmful Colorants in Cosmetics

One example of a hazardous dye frequently found in illegal cosmetics is K3 (Pigment Red 53, Colour Index 15585). This dye is a synthetic azo pigment commonly used in the textile, ink, and paper industries to produce bright red to purplish-red colors. Pigment Red 53 is not intended for cosmetic use because it has toxic and carcinogenic potential.

In practice, K3 is still often found in decorative cosmetic products such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and lip tints, particularly in products manufactured without official marketing authorization. The strong and stable red color intensity makes this pigment attractive to manufacturers; however, its use is highly risky because these cosmetics are applied directly to sensitive skin areas, such as the lips and the area around the eyes, thereby increasing the potential for absorption of harmful substances into the body.

Prohibition of Textile Dye Usage

Recognizing these dangers, the Indonesian National Agency of Drug and Food Control has strictly prohibited the use of textile dyes and certain hazardous colorants in cosmetics, as stipulated in regulations concerning prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients. Cosmetic products proven to contain hazardous dyes are withdrawn from the market, and manufacturers may be subject to sanctions.

At the international level, the Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products Intended for Consumers Concerning the Safety Review of the Use of Certain Azo-dyes in Cosmetic Products publishes lists of colorants that are permitted and prohibited in cosmetics based on scientific evaluations of toxicity and carcinogenic risk.

The Importance of Cosmetic Testing Before Market Release

As consumers, it is important to be more critical when choosing colored cosmetics. Checking marketing authorization, ingredient composition, and avoiding products with excessively bright colors of unclear origin are initial steps to protect oneself. Cosmetics should not only enhance appearance but also be safe for health. Without proper regulation and consumer awareness, colored cosmetics can become a hidden threat to human skin and overall health.

This is why cosmetic testing is essential to determine the safety and suitability of products before they reach the market. Without proper oversight and consumer awareness, colored cosmetics can become hidden threats to the skin and overall health.

Author : Delfi
Editor : Alphi

References : 

Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makanan (BPOM). 2019. Peraturan BPOM No. 23 Tahun 2019 Tentang Persyaratan Teknis Bahan kosmetika.

Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products Intended for Consumers (SCCNFP). 2002. Safety Review of the Use of Certain Azo-dyes in Cosmetic Products.

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