Probiotic Fermentation for Beauty? Discover Exopolysaccharides and Their Benefits for the Skin
With the advancement of technology, the cosmetics industry is now undergoing a revolution toward biotechnology, utilizing microbes as probiotic ingredients. This technology focuses on skin care by maintaining the skin microbiome—a community of microorganisms that live on the skin’s surface and contribute to its barrier function, hydration, and defense against pathogens. As consumers become more aware of reducing synthetic ingredients, the cosmetics industry has begun incorporating probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics into skincare formulations.
The goal is to maintain a balanced and healthy skin microbiome while offering benefits such as anti-inflammatory, anti-aging effects, and improved skin moisture. Scientific studies have proven that direct application of probiotic extracts (lysates, ferments, and enzymes) can deliver positive results in terms of anti-aging properties, moisturization, skin brightening, and UV protection. However, incorporating live probiotics into skincare remains a major challenge due to concerns over stability and safety. The allowable concentration of live microorganisms in creams and other cosmetics is highly restricted to <1000 CFU/g, which is why many products use postbiotics or lysates instead.
- The Role of Probiotics, Prebiotics, and Postbiotics for Skin Health
- Fermentation Techniques for EPS Production
- Examples of Skincare Products Containing EPS
The Role of Probiotics, Prebiotics, and Postbiotics for Skin Health
Probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics are now a major focus in skin care due to their role in maintaining the balance of the skin's microbiome.
1. Probiotics
Probiotics are live microorganisms that are beneficial to the skin, helping to reduce inflammation, enhance defenses against pathogens, and maintain natural moisture.
2. Prebiotics
Prebiotics are substances that serve as “food” for the beneficial microbes on the skin, thus supporting the growth of a healthy microbial community.
3. Postbioctic
Postbiotics, on the other hand, are metabolites produced by microbes, such as enzymes, peptides, or bacterial lysates, that provide positive effects without the risk of growth of live bacteria. One widely studied postbiotic compound is Exopolysaccharides (EPS).
Exopolysaccharides (EPS) are produced by lactic acid bacteria through a fermentation process and have significant biological functions. In the food industry, EPS contribute to the texture, viscosity, and stability of products. Outside of food, EPS have shown potential in modulating the gut microbiota and can interact directly with immune cells, modulating cytokine production, and enhancing immune responses.
Recent research also shows that EPS has significant benefits for the skin. EPS can reduce free radical levels through hydroxyl and carboxyl groups (which are redox-active), retain moisture, increase elasticity, plumpness, and reduce wrinkles. EPS can increase the expression of stratum corneum proteins to strengthen defenses against acne-causing pathogens, stimulate collagen synthesis, and fibroblast proliferation to reduce premature aging.
In addition to acting as a probiotic, EPS can also function as a prebiotic for the skin microbiome, supporting microbiome balance and modulating the skin's immune system. Research also shows that applying probiotic extracts directly to the skin, whether in the form of lysates, fermentates, or enzymes, can provide additional benefits such as anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, skin brightening, and protection from UV exposure. With this approach, the skin is not only protected from irritation and inflammation, but also maintains optimal skin barrier function, resulting in healthier, fresher-looking skin.
Fermentation Techniques for EPS Production
EPS production from lactic acid bacteria can be achieved through fermentation techniques. Fermentation conditions greatly influence the yield, structure, and properties of the resulting EPS. The batch fermentation method is the most commonly used, focusing on parameters such as carbon and nitrogen sources, pH, temperature, agitation, and fermentation duration. The carbon source plays a critical role in determining the amount of EPS produced as it acts as a precursor in sugar biosynthesis.
Lactic acid bacteria typically thrive at temperatures between 25–40°C, with a pH range of 5–7, under facultative anaerobic conditions. Some lactic acid bacteria strains synthesize EPS during the late exponential or stationary growth phases. In Lactobacillus plantarum, maximum EPS production is achieved at around 36 hours of fermentation.
Examples of Skincare Products Containing EPS
Several cosmetic brands have started incorporating EPS into their formulations. One example is Algenist Splash Absolute Hydration Replenishing Sleeping Pack, which contains algae-derived exopolysaccharides to help maintain skin moisture overnight. EPS compounds can work synergistically with other cosmetic ingredients like hyaluronic acid (HA), which acts as a moisture-binding agent.
When combined, HA draws water into the epidermis while EPS slows down water loss, creating a long-lasting hydrating effect. Additionally, a combination of EPS and niacinamide can enhance the skin’s barrier function, modulate inflammation, and brighten dark spots.
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Before your skincare product is marketed, or even while it's still in the formulation stage, ensuring the safety, effectiveness, and stability of active ingredients is crucial, especially for probiotics, postbiotics, or EPS ingredients that are sensitive to environmental conditions. Laboratory testing can help identify potential irritants, ensure microorganism levels meet standards, and scientifically substantiate product benefit claims.
Entrust your cosmetic product testing to IML Research. With comprehensive lab testing services, from active ingredient analysis to formulation evaluation, IML Research ensures every product is safe, effective, and ready to go to market with complete confidence. Start your skincare lab testing now and increase consumer trust.
Author: Safira
Editor: Sabilla Reza
References:
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Dou, J., Feng, N., Guo, F., Chen, Z., Liang, J., Wang, T., Guo, X., & Xu, Z. (2023). Applications of probiotic constituents in cosmetics. Molecules, 28(19), 6765. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28196765
Waoo AA, Singh S, Pandey A, Kant G, Choure K, Amesho KTT, Srivastava S. Microbial exopolysaccharides in the biomedical and pharmaceutical industries. Heliyon. 2023 Aug 1;9(8):e18613. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e18613. PMID: 37593641; PMCID: PMC10432183.