Cosmetic Laboratory Testing to Ensure the Safe Use of Exfoliating Serums
- Skin Structure and the Natural Exfoliation Process
- Dead Skin Cell Buildup and the Need for Additional Exfoliation
- The Role of AHA BHA and PHA in Exfoliating Serums
- Benefits of Exfoliating Serums for Skin Regeneration and Product Absorption
- Safe and Proper Use of Exfoliating Serums
- The Importance of Laboratory Testing for Exfoliating Serums
Skin Structure and the Natural Exfoliation Process
Human skin consists of three layers: the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. The processes of exfoliation and skin cell renewal occur in the epidermis. The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin, functioning to prevent water loss and protect the underlying tissues from infection, chemical stress, and mechanical damage.
Exfoliation naturally occurs as cells detach from the skin. The turnover of corneum cells takes place through a self-renewal process in which epidermal cells move upward from the basal layer, known as the stratum basalis, then through the next two layers, the stratum spinosum and the stratum granulosum, before finally reaching the stratum corneum. This process takes around four weeks, although it may take longer in aging skin or other skin conditions.
Dead Skin Cell Buildup and the Need for Additional Exfoliation
Naturally, the skin undergoes a process of shedding dead skin cells. The buildup of dead skin cells can cause the skin to appear dull and rough. Facial cleansers alone are not sufficient to remove dead skin cells, which led to the innovation of exfoliating serums. Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the skin’s surface to make it smoother and brighter.
Exfoliating ingredients can be formulated in various product forms such as toners, serums, and creams. The most common form is serum, which has a lightweight texture and penetrates the skin easily, allowing active ingredients to reach deeper layers without obstruction.
The Role of AHA BHA and PHA in Exfoliating Serums
Exfoliating serums work more effectively than natural exfoliation because they contain active agents such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA), or polyhydroxy acids (PHA), which can penetrate deeper into the skin without causing friction. AHA is suitable for addressing dull skin and hyperpigmentation because it works on the skin’s surface, while BHA is more effective for oily and acne-prone skin due to its ability to cleanse pores. PHA has a larger molecular size compared to AHA, resulting in lower penetration, making it gentler and ideal for sensitive skin.
Benefits of Exfoliating Serums for Skin Regeneration and Product Absorption
Regular use of exfoliating serum can help accelerate skin regeneration, resulting in a smoother and more even texture. In addition, these serums help maximize the absorption of other skincare products such as essences or moisturizers because the pores are not clogged by dead skin cells. Skin that is regularly and properly exfoliated becomes more responsive to the nutrients delivered by other skincare products, allowing results to appear more quickly and effectively.
Furthermore, proper exfoliation can help reduce the appearance of blackheads, acne, and early signs of aging such as fine lines and hyperpigmentation. The skin becomes brighter, fresher, and healthier. By stimulating new cell regeneration, previously uneven skin texture can gradually smooth out over time. In certain conditions, regular exfoliation can also help control excess oil production, which is often a trigger for acne.
However, it is important to use exfoliating serums as recommended and avoid overuse to prevent irritation or damage to the skin barrier. Generally, using the product 1–2 times a week is sufficient to achieve optimal results. It should also be noted that exfoliating serum use must be complemented with moisturizers and sunscreen because after exfoliation, the skin becomes more sensitive and vulnerable to sun exposure. The risk of irritation, redness, and even hyperpigmentation can increase if the skin is not protected.
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Safe and Proper Use of Exfoliating Serums
Although exfoliating ingredients offer many benefits, it is important to pay attention to their concentration level, frequency of use, and the timing of application. Exfoliating serums should not be combined with other exfoliating agents such as scrubs or strong active ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, and similar substances.
Exfoliating serums provide many benefits when used wisely and correctly. It is important to pay attention to the signals your skin gives. If signs of irritation or incompatibility appear, the frequency of use should be reduced or the product should be discontinued temporarily. With proper skincare steps, the skin can maintain its long-term health.
The Importance of Laboratory Testing for Exfoliating Serums
To ensure exfoliating serums work effectively and remain safe for use, their formulations and active ingredient concentrations must be scientifically validated. Through proper laboratory testing, your cosmetic and skincare business can ensure product stability, safety, and claim compliance with applicable standards. IML Testing & Research is ready to support the testing of your exfoliating serums to help maintain product quality and strengthen consumer trust.
Author: Delfia
Editor: Sabilla Reza
References:
Grajqevci-Kotori, M., & Kocinaj, A. (2015). Exfoliative Skin-peeling, Benefits from This Procedure and Our Experience. Medical archives (Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina), 69(6), 414–416. https://doi.org/10.5455/medarh.2015.69.414-416
Understanding the difference between AHA and BHA for skin. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/aha-vs-bha. Diakses pada 14 Oktober 2025.
