Powerful Active Ingredients to Tackle Stubborn Acne
Acne is a common condition in which hair follicles in the skin become clogged with dirt, dust, oil, or bacterial infections. Within the hair follicles are sebaceous glands, which normally produce oil or sebum to maintain skin moisture and protect the skin from dirt. However, excessive oil production can lead to clogged pores, especially in dusty and dirty environments that are prone to bacterial growth.
Both oily and dry skin types have the potential to develop acne. Oily skin tends to produce excess sebum, making it easier for pores to become clogged and for blackheads to form, while dry skin is more susceptible to irritation, which can trigger the onset of acne. The resulting acne may manifest as blackheads, white bumps, or red lesions accompanied by pain. The presence of acne can be a significant issue for many individuals, impacting both appearance and comfort, which can be addressed with specialized skincare products.
Active ingredients such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, retinol, azelaic acid, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), adapalene, essential oils, and others can help alleviate and heal acne. Salicylic acid works by penetrating hair follicles and sebaceous glands, dissolving blockages caused by dead skin cells, oil, and other residues that lead to acne. It also helps to reduce the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands, thereby decreasing the likelihood of new blockages that cause acne.
Skincare products commonly contain salicylic acid due to its ability to penetrate deeper into hair follicles compared to other chemical exfoliants, effectively removing blockages and regulating oil production. Salicylic acid also possesses anti-inflammatory properties, which help reduce swelling and redness associated with acne. Furthermore, it can aid in minimizing the shedding of skin cells lining the walls of hair follicles, resulting in fewer blockages.
Topical agents are recommended for mild to moderate comedogenic acne, particularly retinoids (such as isotretinoin and adapalene), benzoyl peroxide, and azelaic acid. Retinoids function as inhibitors of comedogenesis, sebum production, and inflammation. Benzoyl peroxide has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects and demonstrates mild comedolytic activity. Azelaic acid possesses antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and comedolytic properties.
a. Closed comedones, b. Open comedones, c. Skin papules, d. Skin pustules, e. Nodular acne image by Jurnal Review : Tea Tree Oil: Properties and the Therapeutic Approach to Acne—A Review
The treatment of acne vulgaris is based on the type and severity of the acne, while also considering coexisting conditions and patient preferences, as outlined in European guidelines. The European guidelines for acne treatment present a very straightforward clinical classification of pathology, namely comedonal acne, mild to moderate papulopustular acne, severe papulopustular acne, and moderate to severe nodular acne and conglobata acne.
The use of active ingredients can have side effects if used over extended periods or at high concentrations. The skin may become dry and thin, leading to mild to severe irritation. The use of moisturizers is highly recommended to keep the skin hydrated during the exfoliation process. When using active ingredients, it is advisable to avoid direct exposure to UV rays, which can cause redness. Newly formed skin cells are more vulnerable and therefore require extra protection. Additionally, it is essential to control excess oil by using blotting papers, which have been shown to effectively remove sebum from the face and reduce the risk of new acne formation.
How do you already know which active ingredients are suitable for acne-prone skin? If you have acne-prone skin, you can use active ingredients that are suitable for your type of acne. And if you want to create skincare with the ingredients mentioned above, make sure to conduct laboratory tests on your skincare products at IML Research!
References:
He, X., Wan, F., Su, W., & Xie, W. (2023). Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 28(14), 5556. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28145556.
Nascimento, Tânia et al., 2023. Tea Tree Oil: Properties and the Therapeutic Approach to Acne – A Review. Antioxidants, 12, 1264. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox12061264
